Kedarnath trek

During my stay in Uttarakhand, I had a chance encounter with my brother while he was on a short trip to Ukimath with three of his friends: Jhalak, Ritesh, and a guy from Kolkata. We decided to grab some snacks and coffee at a nearby café and catch up on his plans.

We also decided to spend some time by the Ganges, especially since Ritesh was eagerly waiting to meet his girlfriend. I vividly recall him describing a story by the Ganges, about how he met her at a wedding, which he elaborated on.

Reflecting on my six-month solo trip, I must say that as I roamed around, seeking solutions to various challenging situations, I had the opportunity to meet many new people. Most of them turned out to be incredibly friendly and helpful, often coming across as guardian angels.

One day, Ritesh messaged me with exciting news. He and six friends were planning a bike ride trip to Kedarnath and Badrinath, and there was one pillion seat available if I wanted to join. I couldn't contain my excitement, as I had never imagined this opportunity. My elder sister had previously taken our parents to Kedarnath with her husband, and I had sponsored 50,000 rupees for their trip. Little did I know that I would be fortunate enough to embark on a journey with seven unfamiliar guys, with only one of them being my brother's friend.

I embarked on my journey on May 4th, joining Ritesh, Krishna, Rahul, DP Don, another YouTuber Suraj, Gabber, and Surender. After packing my bag, I left my homestay in Rishikesh and met them near the highway. I rode pillion with Ritesh on his R15, but the back seat was so small that I knew my journey was going to be challenging from the very begining.

We began our ascent through Shivpuri and enjoyed a delightful brunch with heavy parathas. The view was simply breathtaking. As we continued our journey, we crossed the confluence of the rivers at Devprayag. It was my first time witnessing the merging of two distinct-colored rivers, Bhagirathi and Alakananda, forming a single river.

Upon reaching Srinagar, we took a break and savoured sugarcane juice. Ritesh was experiencing discomfort from his new boots, and his nails were hurting. Fortunately, I carry essential tools with me, including a nail cutter, which I offered to him. This alleviated his pain.

Next, we visited the Dhari Devi temple. The temple had gained significance on June 15, 2013, when its idol was relocated from its original site to make way for the construction of a dam. This move sparked opposition from many people who believed it would disturb Kali Devi. Coincidentally, the very next day, a massive cloudburst and flash flood struck Uttarakhand. This catastrophic event led to the devastation of Kedarnath Dham, claiming lives, houses, trees, and vehicles.

We continued our journey and passed through Rudraprayag and Augustyamuni. Just before Guptakashi, we made a pit stop at a restaurant called Hotel Giridhar to take a break. The cold weather started to make its presence felt. Upon reaching Guptkashi, we stayed at a friend's place.

In the evening, we visited a nearby Shiva temple named Makunath. It was a delightful short hike and a serene experience. The house was small, and the host, Aunty, was exceptionally kind. With only two rooms available, I slept on the floor in Aunty's room. The 7 boys were in the other room. She provided me food and a thick comforter, and we were all so exhausted that we fell asleep early. We had plans to wake up early the next day. Aunty shared stories about Shiva and the Pandavas, tales of Kedarnath and Guptkashi, and stories of Kalbhairav until I dozed off. Her stories still resonate with me.

On the morning of May 5th, 2022, we set out early, indulging in a breakfast of paneer parathas and butter at Sonprayag. We parked our bikes there and embarked on our trek, ultimately reached Gourikund which serves as the starting point for the Kedarnath temple trek. I arrived at Gourikund in the afternoon, while my friends took a dip in the holy spring waters. The water was scalding hot, and I decided to skip it, mentally preparing myself for the challenges ahead: the freezing cold and the steep 20-kilometer Kedarnath trek.

My determination to complete the trek on foot was strong, but I quickly found myself out of breath and exhausted just 500 meters into the journey. I wondered how I would ever reach Kedarnath. Nevertheless, I pushed forward with my trek, finding solace in the company of my companions. Where Ritesh silently left on a mule as his new boot troubled him so much that it was impossible for him to walk but his other 6 friends were humorous and full of life, cracking jokes and keeping everyone's spirits high.

As I ascended further, nature's magic unfolded with every step. The surrounding mountains, trees, and the rushing Mandakini river below seemed to reinvigorate and empower me for the temple ahead. Along the way, I had an argument with one of my companions, Rahul. He's an experienced trekker and had completed the Kedarnath Trek in just four hours during his previous visit. Keeping me company slowed him down, and he wanted to communicate this to me. While I was doing my best, I was exhausted and began to argue, asserting that men and women have different strengths and speeds. I was inwardly upset and already regretting why I had joined a group of boys on this trek; it might have been easier to come alone. However, Rahul later walked with me and explained more effectively that I shouldn't take long breaks. He advised me to walk actively for 15 minutes, take a 5-minute break, and then continue actively, rather than lazily. This advice helped me set my pace, and at times, we took shortcuts. Rahul even held my hand and helped me up in challenging sections. He was carrying his own bag and Gabbar's bag, as Gabbar was struggling with breathing issues and had to crawl at times. Finally, after our long and challenging journey, we reached the base camp at around 9-10 pm. We decided to book a public tent and sleeping bag, which cost us 500 rupees per person. Exhausted and hungry, we devoured whatever hot food we could find and then settled down to sleep.

Next day morning 4am we used public toilets and started our walk to reach the final destination. it took 3hours to reach the top. I started crying I tasted magic for real when I spotted the temple’s dome with snow-capped mountains in its backdrop. This very visual drained off all my exhaustion and after having taken almost 10-11 hrs. to complete the Kedarnath trek, I wouldn’t have minded trekking for 10 more hours.

After a challenging journey, we finally reached Kedarnath temple. I felt extremely unwell—dehydrated, short of breath, experiencing nausea and vomiting. The queue to enter the temple stretched for 3 kilometers. Despite our excitement to take pictures, we couldn't maintain our position and decided to postpone our visit. Setting up our tent within the temple campus, we were utterly exhausted and promptly fell asleep.

Later that evening, we explored the surroundings. I observed numerous ash-covered saints and sadhus seated with tridents (Trishuls), seemingly lost in their own realm. Witnessing these sadhus around the temple was intriguing; at times, they sang, while other moments saw them with pots of marijuana. The temperature fluctuated significantly, from daytime heat to -2 degrees Celsius at night. The diverse crowd, all chanting the name of Shiva, crafted an exceptional and spiritually charged ambiance—a notable contrast indeed.

The task wasn't complete yet. At around 2 am, we woke up to join the queue. Two friends stood for an hour, then two others took their place. They called me when they approached the temple gate at approximately 5 am. Unfortunately, I was delayed in reaching them, and they entered the temple without me. It was devastating; I lost track of them. Frantically searching around the temple, I realized I was alone. I needed to enter the temple somehow as I couldn't join the queue from the very end—it would take too long, and I doubted my friends would wait. I began pleading with the people in the queue, explaining my friends were already inside and requested to be allowed in.

I encountered a kind gentleman in a white shirt and dhoti who was assisting in maintaining the line, preventing people from cutting in. I explained my situation and, gripping his arm, pleaded to be allowed in. He graciously granted me entry—a true guiding angel, as I later realized. Inside the temple, the interior appeared dimly lit. Statues of the five Pandava brothers and Draupadi adorned the space. The main hall housed a conical stone believed to be the hump of the bull Lord Shiva transformed into. Other statues of Lord Shiva and various deities were also present. I offered my prayers and wandered around the area. The spiritual aura was intense, reminding me of my mother's experience here. She was deeply moved and, despite having little of value, offered her golden earring with heartfelt prayers.

Upon my return, my friends were astonished to see that I had managed to enter the temple unaccompanied. It was a moment that made me feel accomplished. Subsequently, we visited the Bhairavnath temple, a mere 500 meters trek from Kedarnath temple, taking us around 30 minutes to reach. The spot offered breathtaking views of the Kedarnath Temple and the entire valley.

Known as the guardian of the region, the deity of Bhairavnath temple safeguards the area. Legends say that during winter when heavy snowfall closes the Kedarnath Temple, this deity protects both the main temple area and the entire valley.

After descending, we packed our tent and commenced our return trek. We placed Gabbar on a mule as he was unable to walk. While descending, we witnessed an unfortunate incident where a person lost balance and broke his arm. With no mid-way medical facilities, he had to endure the pain until reaching the end for medical aid. Meanwhile, I inadvertently got separated from the group and found myself walking down alone. I recalled my recent month-long stint at a yoga school where I learned the Buddhist mantra "Om Mani Padme Hum." Reciting it gave me strength as I walked, this mantra symbolizes enlightenment and the fusion of wisdom and compassion in Buddhism.

During my solo descent, I paused to have Maggi when hunger struck and later took a break for tea, where I encountered my guiding angel once more, this time dressed in all black. Meeting him when I was 5 kilometers away from the base, we began walking together. During our conversation, I learned that his name was Mr. Shiv Sharma, undertaking a solitary journey to Kedarnath temple. His calm demeanor and soft-spoken nature gave the impression that he appeared precisely when needed, almost guided by God Shiva himself to aid me during challenging moments on my journey. He escorted me to Gaurikund where I reunited with my group before bidding farewell.

Meeting him was an incredible part of this trek. On the contrary, I surprised my group once more by being the first to descend. Upon our return to Guptkashi, we spent the night reminiscing about our trek experiences. The next morning, they left for the Badrinath temple, while I stayed behind due to feeling unwell and the discomfort caused by the small and uncomfortable seat of the R15 bike, resulting in significant back pain—I couldn't endure it to finish the trip. Returning to Rishikesh marked the completion of my incredible Kedarnath temple trek.

Thanks for reading <3